Positioned about 5 minutes walk from road work riddled Oxford St, I read about Riding House Cafe earlier this year. However, I didn't stumble past it until late August when visiting Kaffeine (an excellent cafe) opposite. Having apparently replaced a Slug and Lettuce, you'd be forgiven for missing RHC even when you do pass it. The understated outer and stripped back inner (all bricks, metal and whatnot) are a welcome contrast to the shouty sites of it's nearby shopping destination and a relieving retreat in itself. However, most of all I felt like I'd somehow stepped across the Atlantic into a Lower East Side dining room, an impression which was only reinforced by the breadth and depth of the menu. Seemingly devoid of a decent bloody mary, I was pleased to be offered a strong, black filter coffee within seconds. In fact the pouring was so liberal I wondered if a London restaurant had finally adopted the caffeine generosity I so fondly associated with NYC.
That said, coffee became a bit of a side show when we saw the range of milk bottle milkshakes, particularly our choice called a "Racer". The blend of chocolate, banana, espresso and milk tasted even more indulgent and energising than it's ingredients would suggest, albeit I'd recommend one between two unless you're planning to skip the main act; the food itself.
Ranging from chorizo hash browns to bircher muesli, and cured sea trout to avocado on toast, I have never been so spoilt for choice as to how I should start my day. That said I was intrigued to try RHC's "Full & Proper Breakfast" which came in at a fairly reasonable £9.40. Well presented and clearly prepared with care, I was impressed by the black pudding and field mushroom in particular. The streaky bacon was a little too brittle in my books, but compensated for by two delicious sausages and gently runny eggs.
Watching others tuck into the chorizo hash browns and even the orkney bacon sandwich, I do rather wonder if I made the wrong choice. While I'm always keen to ensure a level playing field by tucking in to the full works, on reflection I think that the RHC is less about this classic dish and is instead more proud of the breadth of it's breakfast menu. Having then tasted the chorizo dish, I think it's fair to say that when it comes to RHC, the "Full and Proper Breakfast" is just that, but unfortunately not half as tasty as the more unique corners of the menu.
Scoring: 8/10
Visit it: RHC
Find it: Map
Pay for it: £42
